If youve been learning Japanese for a while, especially if youve visited Japan and heard things youve never heard in class or seen in a textbook, youve probably come to realise there isnt just one kind of Japanese.
Hokkaid?-ben ????, or more formally Hokkaid?-h?gen ?????, is the dialect spoken in Japans northern island. Thanks to Hokkaidos history of settlement much of it comes from other parts of Japan, particularly Tohoku. Many of the words Ill be sharing here are also found in other parts of Japan, because Hokkaido is unique in that it is a melting pot of many different dialects. There are also regional differences within Hokkaido. The Tohoku influence is strongest on the coast and is called Hama-kotoba ??? or seashore dialect, while in urban Sapporo people speak more standard Japanese. Even though Hokkaido is considered part of Eastern Japan, there are also influences from Northwestern Honshu, the Hokuriku region. Another ingredient in the stew of Hokkaido-ben is the native Ainu language. This is most easily seen in the place names, but well get to that later.
Hokkaido-ben Highlights
???? (cute) is a ubiquitous word in Japan and probably one you all know. In Hokkaido there is another way to say it. ???? literally means small face. If someone tells you that you have a small face, they are paying you a compliment. The ?? part of ???? is the same ?? you hear in kendo when someone strikes at the head. But this isnt an aggressive word at all. Of all the Hokkaido-ben words here, this is the one Ive heard the most, usually being squealed by High School girls. A picture of a cartoon bunny is ????. A cute haircut is ????. Basically anywhere you can use kawaii, you can use menkoi in the same way. It is an ?-adjective and functions in the same way as kawaii.
???: ???????????????????
Example: Tofugu-chan is cuuuuuuuuute!
???? means ??????, people born in Hokkaido. I remember clearly a boy coming up to me and saying very proudly I am dosanko? This nickname for Hokkaido people comes from the Dosanko horse. Dosanko horses are one of Japans native breeds of horse. Like dosanko people, Dosanko horses are born and bred in Hokkaido. They are fairly small, but remarkably powerful ponies, adapted for heavy farm work and harsh winters.
???: ?????????????????????
Example: Im not afraid of winter or bears because I was born in Hokkaido.
It wouldnt be a list of Hokkaido words without some for being cold. ???? is a particularly frosty kind of cold, a cold that gets into your bones and makes you shiver. Its easy to remember because ???? sounds like shiver put into katakana. It doesnt just mean cold, it means deep, freezing cold. ?? (???), the standard word for cold, just doesnt capture the extreme cold of Hokkaido the way ???? does.
???: ???????????
Example: The inside of my house is freezing cold.
When you throw out your garbage in Hokkaido, you really throw it. Or at least you say that you do. The standard phrase is ?????? (??????). But in Hokkaido the word ???, which means dispose, is swapped for ??? (???), which means throw, as in to throw a ball. If you say ?????? outside Hokkaido, people will think you are throwing and littering your trash all over the place. This is one to be wary of using outside Hokkaido unless you want to be garbage shamed.
???: ?????????????
Example: My brother never throws out the garbage.
The formal and standard meaning of ?? is all the areas covered by Japanese sovereignty, including Hokkaido. It could also be translated as homeland and it crops up a lot in treaties and the Japanese constitution. However, when you are in Hokkaido and you want to talk about the rest of Japan you can also say ?? naichi to mean the mainland. It can mean just Honshu, or Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku combined, depending on the context. This is a casual usage that Hokkaido shares with Okinawa. If you are at either end of Japan and you want to talk casually about the middle then you can say ??.
???: ???????????
Example: He is on a trip to the mainland.
??????? is the Hokkaido way of saying ???? isshoukennmei, to the best of ones a ability. That sounds a little dry, so maybe a better translation is hustle, work your arse off or work like crazy.
???: ???????????????????????
Example: If I dont study like crazy, I will be eaten by an alligator-crab.
???? is the Hokkaido way of saying ???, always. People dont always use ????, but when they do theyre probably speaking Hokkaido-ben. Grammatically, it works the same way as the standard ???.
???: ????????????????????
Example: Grandpa always speaks in Hokkaido dialect.
How to Sound like an Old Hokkaido Man
Some Hokkaido-ben has fallen out of fashion with young people. Though youll hear some phrases ringing in the halls of high schools, others you will only hear from people over 50. They are still pretty fun though. Some people took great joy in teaching me these phrases. They thought it was funny to hear them coming from a young foreign girl.
There are very many ways to say very in Japanese. You can use ??? in the same way as ??? and it has the same meaning, very. This word emerged in the 1970s, but is not popular with young people these days, who prefer the slang ????. ?????? its very delcious is a catchphrase of Hokkaido born entertainer Yo Oizumi. If you are eating Hokkaidos delicious food, its hard not to say ???????
???: ??????????????!
Example: My cat is very cute!
You might think you know this one. ??? (??) means scary. Except in Hokkaido, where it means tired. Its tempting to think that old Hokkaido folk are just messing with you, taking a perfectly good word and changing the meaning completely. To make things more confusing, the standard use of ??? is also common in Hokkaido. Its all about context. I often heard older teachers saying ????? (???????) as they complained about the seven hours of basketball practice theyd done at the weekend. If you are feeling exhausted or woozy, you can say it too.
???: ????????????????
Example: After jogging, my legs are exhausted.
??? is a word for something that youve probably experienced, but never had the perfect word for in English or in standard Japanese. Its a kind of itchy pain, like getting grit in your eye. Alternatively it can mean a pinching tightness, like wearing underwear thats too small. Youll also hear people complaining about ??? in Miyagi Prefecture and some parts of Tohoku.
???: ????????????????????????
Example: My eye is itchy and my underpants are tight. Life is awful.
Dialects Within a Dialect
I spent three years living in Nemuro, the easternmost town in Hokkaido. In addition to being one of the most remote places in Japan, it is also one of the foggiest. Even in the summer when there was brilliant sunshine shining across the whole island, Nemuro would be covered in a thick sea-fog. So its not surprising that the locals had some special words for fog. Ill share them with you, but you should be aware that if Hokkaido-ben is often misunderstood outside Hokkaido, Nemuro-ben cant be understood even in the next town over. So its basically useless unless youre planning a trip to Nemuro (which I would recommend.) However, it does show how many variations there are in dialect, even within one island.
?? is a variation of the standard word for fog ? ??. The people of Nemuro are fog connoisseurs and there is a difference between ?? and ??. ?? is a standard fog, but ?? is a heavy fog with visible droplets in the air. It gets under your umbrella and inside your clothes. There is nothing you can do to stop ?? from soaking you through.
The second word for fog is ??. This comes from the English word ??. Gasu is a less wetting fog than ??. It rolls off the sea and into the town, usually in the afternoons.
Now you know two Japanese words for fog that you will probably never have a chance to use. But if you do find yourself in Nemuro, then you will really impress some people by saying, ???????.
Speaking of living in strange town, lets take a look at Hokkaidos strange town names.
I Lived in a Root Room
Hokkaidos place names dont seem to make much sense. Down on the mainland, most names of towns and cities have a certain logic to them, even if they sound poetic. Tokyo ?? means eastern capital. Kanazawa ?? means golden marsh. Aomori ?? means blue forest. Most place names are drawn from the natural world or administrative terms.
But when you get to Hokkaido logic doesnt seem to apply anymore. Sapporo ?? means bill hood. Betsukai ?? means different sea. Wakkanai ?? means juvenile inside. Nemuro ??, where I lived, translates as root room. The names dont seem to match up to the real landscape as they do in the rest of Japan.
That is, until you learn that the town names in Hokkaido are often transliterations of the original Ainu names into kanji. The artefacts of the Ainu language can still be seen in Hokkaidos place names. Muroran ?? might seem strange translated as room orchid, but its original name was Mo Ruerani, meaning bottom of a little slope, which makes a lot more sense. Wakkanai in Ainu is ??????? Yam Wakannay and means cold-water river. Many towns have the sounds betsu and nai which both mean river in Ainu. Instead of matching the meanings when the towns were given their kanji names, officials matched the sounds, often using kanji such as ? or ? for the Ainu betsu and ? for the Ainu nai. Place names in Hokkaido dont teach you much about local geography, unless you look beneath the surface.
More Resources
If you have become ??? interested in Hokkaido-ben and want to find out more, here are some resources to help you.
The Online Hokkaido Dialect Dictionary (3rd Edition) is a little dry, but can be useful.
A ???? girl teaches you Hokkaido-ben in this series of videos made by Hokkaido Fan Magazine. Heres an example:
Here is a Hokkaido-ben grammar primer.
If you want to get playful there is a Hokkaido-ben karuta set.
If you are looking for a place to study Japanese, I would certainly recommend Hokkaido. Since most of what you learn is very close to standard Japanese, you wont have any problems being understood wherever you go, even if people do think you are throwing your garbage around. Plus, there is still a thriving local dialect to give your studies some pop! I might sound like a 70 year old fisherman sometimes, but thats okay with me.
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