The Japanese Udon Restaurant That’s Only Open for an Hour

Ten years ago, my first job in New York City was waiting tables at the Prince Street location of Souen, the city’s oldest and best-known macrobiotic restaurant, now closed.
Two years later, I made the trip: As soon as I arrived in Japan, I got in touch and took a bullet train to spend a week with what would become my adopted Japanese family.
My spoken Japanese was “maa-maa” (so-so) and Sarina’s dad, who, she said I could just call Otōsan for “father,” spoke a bit of English, so we communicated well enough.
The first night I was there, Otōsan asked me if I would eat udon, and his eyes were skeptical.
I told him yes and he said to be ready at 6 a.m.