A Yakitori Master’s Manhattan Debut Still Needs Some Work www.grubstreet.com

“I don’t think the Big Man’s here tonight” said my deep-pocketed friend, the Tokyo Whale, who on this evening was dressed not in his vest, but a discreetly gray salary man’s suit.
The Big Man in question is Yoshiteru Ikegawa, the Jiro of Japan’s burgeoning haute-yakitori scene, a chef so devoted to his craft that, according to legend, his fingernails have melted away from spending so much time twirling his yakitori skewers close to the binchotan charcoal flames.
At this early date, they’re still working out the kinks at Torien, of course, and for the record, the Tokyo Whale enjoyed his skewer of kawa much more than I did.
Will your neck-craving critic return to Torien for a second taste of top-dollar, chicken-centric yakitori?
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