Hiroyuki Hirai has been here for 50 years, each day much the same as the last. He smells strongly of saltwater and cheap soap. His face is friendly and flat as a beaten coin. He chuckles a lot, especially at his own jokes, and his smile animates the deep lines on his face.
I visited Tsukiji about 7-8 years ago. It was before they closed it for a while for tourists. I am happy to have been there when it was not that spoiled by the crowds and the trade and auctions were conducted in the traditional manner. The fish restaurants nearby were great by the way. They probably still are.